Velvety soft to the touch, yet rock-solid – linen is one of the oldest and most valuable natural materials that humanity has used for centuries. Thanks to its breathability, durability and natural elegance, it has also found a firm place in modern fashion, especially in summer collections. When choosing linen clothing, however, we often come across a parameter that is not so obvious at first glance – the weight of the fabric . However, it is this that significantly affects how the garment will be worn, look and behave when washed or in hot weather. Weight does not only mean the "thickness" of the fabric, but is a key indicator of its density and thus the overall quality and purpose of use.
The goal of this article is to show you how to understand linen weights , which one to choose for different types of clothing, and why this parameter really matters – whether you're sewing your own collection or just want to know what you're buying.
Chapters
- What is the fabric weight?
- Manufacturing tolerance
- Light linen 100-150 g/m²
- Medium linen 150-200 g/m²
- Heavy linen 200-250 g/m²
- Very heavy linen over 250 g/m²
What is fabric weight and how is it measured?
The fabric weight is a measurement that indicates the weight of the fabric per square meter . It is expressed in grams per square meter and is abbreviated as g/m² (read as "grams per square meter"). So if you have a linen fabric with a grammage of 160 g/m², this means that a square of fabric measuring 1x1m weighs exactly 160 grams.
Thickness is not the same as weight
Fabric weight is often confused with the thickness of a fabric, but they are not the same thing. Thickness refers to the physical “height” of the material, while fabric weight reflects how many threads (and how tightly) are woven into the fabric – and therefore its weight. A fabric can be relatively thin but have a high grammage due to a dense weave, or it can appear fluffy but be as light as a feather.
Why is fabric weight used?
Fabric weight is practical in the textile industry because it gives a quick idea of the suitability of a fabric for a specific purpose – whether it is airy and light, or dense and strong. While in the stationery industry grammage is commonly used to assess the strength and transparency of paper, in textiles it helps us estimate, for example:
- how the fabric will behave when worn (e.g. will it be flowing or firm),
- how breathable it will be,
- whether it will shine through,
- what insulation properties it will have.
In short, weight is the key to choosing the right fabric for a specific type of clothing – and this is doubly true for linen.
Manufacturing tolerances for fabric weight – why can the information vary?
Even if the fabric label states an exact number (for example, 180 g/m²), in reality, slight variations should be expected. The standard manufacturing tolerance for fabric weight is usually within ±5–10%. This means that a linen fabric marked as 180 g/m² may actually weigh 165 or 195 grams per square meter – and yet it is still considered a fabric of the same category.
These differences occur naturally during the production process. The fabric weight is affected by the density and fineness of the yarn, the weaving method, but also conditions such as air humidity or the tension in the looms. The fibers can shrink or expand slightly during processing, which affects the final weight and structure of the fabric. In the case of natural materials such as linen, the variability of the raw material itself can also play a role – linen fiber is not synthetically homogeneous, so its properties can also vary from batch to batch.
That is why it is important to understand the fabric weight as an indicative technical parameter, rather than an absolute value, when choosing. The final feel of the fabric is also influenced by its surface treatment, washing method, or whether it is pre-shrunk.
Light linen - weight 100–150 g/m²
Very light, thin linen with a subtle to almost translucent effect , especially in light shades. It is soft and airy to the touch, with a slight cooling effect. It tends to flow naturally, but due to its low weight it can also have a slightly "papery" character.
- Translucency - high, especially in light colors. Lining or layering is often needed.
- Wrinkleability - it wrinkles relatively easily, but due to its lightness, the wrinkling is not as pronounced as with heavier linen fabrics.
- Flow - very good - the fabric "falls" freely, adapts well to body movement .
- Uses - Summer blouses, shirts, tunics, beach dresses, children's clothing, scarves or pajamas. Great for tropical climates or hot summers in the city.
Medium linen - weight 150–200 g/m²
The most versatile weight range. A medium weight linen that balances softness and structure. It feels firmer but still retains softness and breathability. It is less see-through and has a longer lifespan.
- Translucency - low to medium - depends on the color and type of weave. In most cases, a lining is no longer needed.
- Wrinkleability - typical of linen, but less noticeable than in lower weights. The fabric retains its "civilized look" even after several hours of wear.
- Flow - good - holds its shape but is not stiff. Suitable for cuts that should gently follow the body without the fabric "standing".
- Uses - a universal choice for everyday wear - pants, dresses, overalls, loose jackets, light skirts or tops. Excellent balance between aesthetics and functionality.
Heavy linen - weight 200–250 g/m²
A thicker and more structured linen. Firmer to the touch, often with a more pronounced plain weave. The fabric has a clearly defined shape and holds the garment's construction when sewn . It may be less breathable in summer, but is ideal for transitional seasons.
- Translucency - very low to opaque - no lining needed even for light colors
- Wrinkleability - Crumpleability is present, but less disruptive due to the greater density of the material. The fabric crumples "deeply" but remains luxurious in appearance.
- Flow - rather limited - the fabric has body, holds its shape and does not fall loose. Suitable for cuts that have a silhouette or construction.
- Uses - skirts with slits, structured dresses, spring coats, cropped blazers, durable pants. Suitable for city or work wear.
Very heavy linen - weight over 250 g/m²
A very robust, dense and heavy linen. It is coarser to the touch, less pliable and has a rustic feel. It is often used with the intention of creating an "artisanal", natural or vintage look.
- Translucency - none - the fabric is completely opaque and very durable.
- Wrinkleability - still creased, but the wrinkles give the fabric a sense of intentional patina - they give it character. The weight makes it easier to "pull" the fabric out with a steamer.
- Flow - low - the fabric is stiff and holds its shape on its own. Not suitable for loose or romantic cuts.
- Uses - jackets, coats, handbags, backpacks, aprons, tablecloths, curtains, pillows or other home textiles. Also popular for costumes and traditional clothing.
Summary and recommendations
The weight of a linen fabric is much more than just a number on the label. It affects how a garment will look, how it will wear, how it will move, and how long it will last. Choosing the right weight is the foundation of comfort, aesthetics, and practicality – and often determines whether your piece becomes a favorite companion or just something that will stay in your closet.
Whether you sew at home or choose from a boutique, pay as much attention to the material as you do to the cut or color. Quality linen with the right weight is an investment – in comfort, style and sustainability.
