Linen is rightly gaining more and more popularity. This natural material captivates us with its natural beauty, excellent breathability, ability to regulate temperature and exceptional ecological footprint. It is the ideal choice for those looking for a textile material that is kind to nature and your own skin. In addition, it is hypoallergenic, antibacterial and the longer you wear it, the more comfortable it becomes.
But beyond these well-known advantages, the question arises: can linen withstand everyday reality? Friction, frequent washing, sitting, movement... in short, everything that clothing is commonly exposed to?
In this article, we will therefore look at one of the key properties of any fabric – abrasion resistance . We will focus on how linen performs in this discipline, what affects its durability and why it is not a weaker opponent than it might seem at first glance.
Chapters
- What is abrasion resistance?
- Martindale abrasion resistance test
- Comparing linen to other materials
- Factors affecting the durability of linen
- Practical example: Why aren't linen pants suitable for cycling?
What does abrasion resistance mean?
Abrasion resistance is the ability of a fabric to withstand friction without causing damage to its surface – such as fraying, thinning or tearing of fibers. In layman’s terms: the higher the abrasion resistance, the longer the fabric will look good even with regular use.
How does abrasion occur?
Friction occurs whenever a material comes into contact with another surface – such as skin, underwear, a shoulder bag or the seat of a chair. Everyday wearing, bending, sitting, walking or washing in the washing machine – all of this puts mechanical stress on the fabric. Some parts of the garment are stressed more than others: for example, the elbows, knees, hips, inner thighs or the places where we carry a backpack or handbag.
Why is abrasion resistance monitored?
Abrasion resistance is one of the main indicators of the durability of a fabric. If you buy a beautiful pair of linen pants, but after a few weeks of wearing them, they start to fray or thin in stressed areas, even the most beautiful fabric loses its value.
In addition to its practicality, abrasion resistance also affects appearance (retention of color, texture, and smoothness) and comfort when worn. A quality material that can withstand repeated use will be pleasant to the touch and retain its shape over time. That is why it is important to pay attention not only to the color and cut when choosing clothes or fabrics, but also to what the material can withstand - and abrasion resistance helps us to reveal this.
Martindale test
In order to truly measure and compare abrasion resistance, the so-called Martindale test is used in the textile industry - a standardized test that simulates long-term friction of a material in normal operation.
How does the Martindale test work?
The fabric is fixed in the device and a standardized abrasive material with a certain roughness (resembling sandpaper) moves against it in a circular path. The number of these circular movements, called cycles, indicates the material's resistance to abrasion. The test is terminated when the tested fabric shows visible wear or abrasion.
How does linen compare to other materials?
Linen is rightly prized for its natural beauty, breathability, and eco-friendliness. But how does it fare when it comes to abrasion resistance compared to other common textile materials?
| Material | Typical Martindale values | Endurance | Note |
|---|---|---|---|
| Linen | 5,000–15,000 cycles | Medium | Very strong in tension, lower elasticity |
| Cotton | 10,000–25,000 cycles | Medium to higher | Softer but less firm than linen, better elasticity |
| Viscose | 5,000–10,000 cycles | Lower to medium | Softer and more pliable, but less durable |
| Polyester | 25,000+ cycles | High to extreme | Very durable, but synthetic, less breathable |
Factors affecting the durability of linen fabric
The abrasion resistance of linen is not determined by the material itself, but is the result of the interaction of several production and user factors. So if you are looking for a linen fabric that will last more than one season, it is worth looking at these key parameters:
Weaving density and weight
The basic rule is: the higher fabric weight, the more durable it is . The fabric weight indicates the amount of material per square meter, and is therefore directly related to the density and strength of the fabric. For example, linen with a grammage of 200 g/m² is stronger and more durable than linen with a grammage of 130 g/m², and can withstand more frequent wear or washing.
🔍 Find out what the linen fabric weight means and how it affects its use.
| Linen weight (g/m²) | Thickness / use | Approximate resistance in Martindale test (cycles) | Suitable use |
|---|---|---|---|
| 120–150 g/m² | very thin, fine linen | 3,000–4,000 | scarves, curtains, summer blouses |
| 150–170 g/m² | light clothing linen | 4,000–6,000 | shirts, loose dresses, summer pajamas |
| 170–190 g/m² | medium-thick clothing linen | 6,000–8,000 | tank tops, skirts, summer dresses, casual pants |
| 190–220 g/m² | medium to thick clothing linen | 8,000–10,000 | dresses, trousers, jackets, work clothes |
| 230–280 g/m² | strong linen | 10,000–12,000 | tablecloths, curtains, thicker skirts |
| 300+ g/m² | technical or upholstery linen | 15,000+ | bags, upholstery, linen backpacks, pillows |
Weaving type
The weaving structure has a significant influence on mechanical resistance:
- Plain weave – most common for linen, simple, strong and stable
- Twill weave – diagonal ribbing, higher elasticity and durability, often used in workwear
- Dobby weave – decorative and finer, may be slightly less durable, but visually attractive
Each type of binding has a different balance of durability and aesthetics – and it is the combination of these factors that determines its suitability for a particular application.
Yarn quality and finishing
The quality of the yarn itself, from which the linen is woven, fundamentally affects the strength and durability of the resulting fabric. Long, regular fibers create a smoother and stronger yarn, which is less prone to fraying and cracking of the fibers during wear and washing. The refinement of the fabric can then significantly improve or, conversely, reduce its abrasion resistance - depending on the specific type of treatment:
- Softening (e.g. enzymatic or mechanical) – this treatment softens the coarser surface of the linen, making the fabric more pleasant to the touch and easier to wear. Softening also slightly modifies the surface structure of the fibers, which can improve their elasticity and reduce friction between the fibers. The result is a lower risk of pilling and tearing when rubbed. Therefore, properly performed softening often leads to better abrasion resistance in practice, while the fabric remains soft and comfortable.
- Sanforization (pre-precipitation) – this technique prevents unwanted shrinkage of the fabric after washing and maintains its original dimensions and shape. As a result, the fabric deforms less and does not change the weave structure, which contributes to long-term abrasion resistance , as the strength and density of the weave remain stable.
On the contrary, some other finishing treatments, such as chemical surface treatments, can have the opposite effect and unnecessarily stiffen or immobilize the fabric, leading to faster wear and loss of comfort.
💡 Good finishing is not only about comfort, but also about maintaining or improving the abrasion resistance of linen
Humidity and usage
Linen is known for its excellent moisture absorption capacity – it can hold up to around 20% of its weight in water without feeling wet to the touch. This property is great for feeling fresh and breathable, but it also brings some risks in terms of abrasion resistance!
What happens to linen when it is wet?
Linen fibers lose their strength slightly when wet – their resistance to mechanical stress decreases, and thus the abrasion resistance of the fabric. This means that wet linen is more susceptible to damage, for example, by rubbing against itself or other surfaces. While dry linen can withstand a fair amount of stress, wet linen is more susceptible to rapid wear.
Practical implications – how to properly care for linen clothing?
- Don't wash too often or too aggressively - washing weakens the fibers, especially if you use high temperatures, aggressive detergents or mechanical scrubbing.
- Avoid rough brushes and strong friction when cleaning - to prevent unwanted fraying of the fibers.
- Damp ironing – ironing a slightly damp fabric helps the fibers remain flexible and prevent damage.
Linen as sports or functional clothing? Better be careful!
Although linen is a natural and very breathable material, it is not an ideal choice for active sports or activities where there is significant sweating and mechanical friction.
For sports activities and activities with a lot of friction and sweating, special functional materials (such as synthetics with high resistance and fast moisture wicking) are more suitable, as they better handle moisture and mechanical stress. Linen, on the other hand, is great for everyday wear, leisure time, vacation or relaxation in a lighter mode.
Practical example of using the Martindale test to determine the durability of linen trousers for cycling
The Martindale test simulates repeated rubbing of a fabric against a standardized surface and measures how many cycles of friction a fabric can withstand before it starts to fray. The linen pants are made from 200 g/m² linen, which has a Martindale resistance of approximately 9,000 cycles. How far can we ride a bike in these pants before they fray?
We simulate cycling in practice:
During cycling, there is intense friction between the seat of the pants and the saddle. This friction can be roughly equivalent to 1 Martindale cycle for each pedal stroke, especially if the fabric is wet with sweat , which reduces its durability.
🚴 How many pedals when riding?
Let's imagine a typical recreational cyclist:
- Wheel circumference (e.g. 28" wheel) ≈ 2.1 m
- Gear ratio (number of times the wheel turns per crank revolution) ≈ 4 (common middle gear)
- Distance per 1 pedal revolution: → 2.1 m × 4 = 8.4 m / pedaling
- How much is 10 km in steps? 10,000 m ÷ 8.4 m ≈ 1,190 steps
📉 Influence of humidity:
Linen loses some of its strength when wet. In tests, the wet strength can be reduced by 20-30%. Adjustment for humidity: 9,000 cycles × 0.7 (wet condition) = approx. 6,300 effective cycles
✍️ Result:
6,300 cycles (wet resistance) ÷ 1,200 pedaling = approx. 5–6 10 km rides, i.e. 50–60 km before the material in the seat wears out. This is a very simplified calculation and there are many other variables that affect this (saddle shape, saddle surface and material, cyclist weight,...). The aim was to show the practical limits of using linen.
⚠️ Linen pants are not suitable for cycling . During the ride, the body sweats, the back of the pants is wet from sweat and at the same time exposed to continuous friction from the saddle. This wet and mechanically stressed condition causes the fibers to quickly lose strength and fray .
